Greece - Efharisto para poli

Did you miss me?? There are a million things to love about the Greek Islands however a strong wifi connection is not one of them - hence my absent blog. However I must say, the enforced break from technology probably wasn’t a terrible thing - I can’t think of a place or time I have been more relaxed than over the past few weeks.

My next phase of Crete was just as great as the first. I travelled from Rethymnon to Heraklion using Crete’s very efficient bus system. Seriously - it’s so easy - and very comfortable! I spent an evening and a morning in Heraklion, which I found pleasantly surprising given the opinions of the locals. I guess when compared to the rest of the island, I can understand their view, but I still found the port charming and the Historical Museum of Crete truly amazing. I won’t rant, but my love of Byzantine art is real.

The next day as I set off to Avdou in the mountains of Crete. As I was leaving to drag my luggage back to the bus station one of the owners of the little hotel I stayed in offered to drive me half way there. He was amazing, but I have found this is in no way unique. Greek locals are just awesome. They are so hospitable I’m ashamed at my cynicism. But I digress.

My seven days at Hotel Velani and the Odessyia stables had begun. The location itself melts away any potential for tension. You are surrounded by mountains that are nothing short of majestic. The food you eat is local with vegetable straight out of the garden. The dominant sound is the chirp of cicadas both day and night. It is beautifully warm but a few degrees cooler than the coast with a lovely breeze. And as for the pool, you can see that for yourself.

We rode for 2 hours every day from 6pm-8pm - a gorgeous time of day. If you ever rode horses when you were younger and wondered if you still can - you can! I was so surprised with how comfortable it was and how easily it all came back. I rode two horses while I was there. Pluto - very enthusiastic and gorgeously clumsy. And Wally, my big handsome but sometimes lazy Friesian. The trails were gorgeous but seemingly difficult for the horses. A lot of steep hills, slippery stones and many parts with concrete, particularly leaving and coming back to the stables. However the middle sections of the ride were fantastic. They varied from rides through the village at the bottom of the hills that invoked stares from the local adults and giggles from the children, to slow meanders through olive plantations and pear trees littered with blue and red dragonflies. There was also plenty of opportunity to trot and canter, the best feeling in the world provided you look out for tree branches that threaten to knock you off your ride! My favourite part of every day was watching the mountains turn pink from the sunset at the end of a ride.

Like all good things, my time here came to an end and I had to say goodbye to the horses, new friends and the most incredible food! I then set off back to Athens to meet up with two of my dear friends from Sydney.

Athens was better with company. Waiting for them to arrive to see the Acropolis was worth it. We went on a walking tour with a brilliant guide who taught us about the struggle between Poseidon and Athena to be the patron deity of Athens (a great story of girl power and olive trees!) We ate more great food and also went further afield to Glyfada which was a welcome change from the touristy streets of Plaka.

The next two stops were Santorini and Mykonos. Oh geez - were they special. Mykonos was a short stop, it was beautiful and we stayed in a resort for a couple of nights. We really didn’t experience the true Mykonos but instead just enjoyed some time to relax - and for that reason I don’t have too much to report.

Santorini on the other hand really was spectacular! We stayed at Imerovigli, the highest point between Fira and Oia. The night we arrived there was an incredible mist rolling in over this part of Santorini. It actually felt like we were sitting in the clouds. Trying to explain how breathtaking that mist was as we watched the sun set over the water is something that should be saved for a more talented writer than myself, however it will suffice to say that I will never forget it.

That was definitely the most magical moment on the island, but aside from that we experienced the black sand beach of Piressa, hiked over a little hill to a church that sat on the sea, ate way to my gyros in Oia and marvelled at the white cave-like buildings that make the Santorini so special. A tip for those planning to visit. we were told multiple times that Santorini is the island of love, but as we dug a little deeper we found out it will apparently make you or break you! We were told that it is as well know for causing divorce as marriage, so - consider yourself warned!

I am writing this from an apartment in Rome (more on that next time) feeling incredibly nostalgic about Greece. I already miss the persistent heat, the endless cappuccino freddos (long cold espresso coffee with frothed milk on top), the warm and calm ocean and the direct, funny and hospitable people more than I care to admit! I am taking comfort in the knowledge it’s a destination that is definitely on my ‘needs further exploration’ list.