Veni Vidi Vici!

But like any good Roman story the Vici part only came after the challenge of a few battles! Our arrival into Rome was one of the most interesting experiences to date. At the time I couldn’t decide whether we were the story line for ‘Taken 3’ or on Italy’s ‘Candid Camera - the Tourist edition!’

So we arrive at our apartment situated in a very small cobbled street near the Trevi Fountain. As we wait to meet with our AirBNB host we notice a tough looking, well built guy in a bandana who starts rattling all the electricity boxes along the street. He passed us and we didn’t think much more of it. Then our host arrived and within moments, Mr Bandana made a beeline for her and started speaking to her in rapid Italian. When we asked what was happening our host seemed flustered, ignored us and got on the phone. Meanwhile, two more guys pulled up on their vespas and just stood there. Mr Bandana asked us where we were from but when we asked who he was said ‘I don’t speak English’ with nothing short of a smirk and returned to hassling our host. Over the next few minutes we were surrounded by no less than 8 men, most didn’t even bother to take their helmets off. I had an inkling these guys were police but when we asked Mr Tough Guy just kept up his ‘I don’t speak English’ act. Finally a uniformed cop showed up. Turns out these non uniformed men were Italy’s ‘Finance Police’ checking to make sure our booking was legitimate (which it was!). They looked at our receipt and got back on their bikes with no apology but a lot of smirky chuckles (can you tell I didn’t like them very much?). And that was our welcome to Rome! (yes the pic below is actually one of our Finance Polizia Friends...)

One drama behind us, our proceeding days in Rome were filled with the things you would expect. Too much pasta and gelato (basil and white chocolate anyone?) and lot’s of amazing architecture, history and art.

Having been obsessed with Michelangelo since he was a subject of my school project when I was 14 I was pretty damn excited to get to get to the Vatican Museums. Our tour guide was brilliant - regaling us with stories of the irreverent Michelangelo. For example his insistence that figures be left naked, including God who’s bottom is exposed on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. Also how he painted a the Pope’s Master of Ceremonies Biago De Cesena in the depths of hell on The Last Judgement because he didn’t like him! (Being as connected as Michelangelo was - when Biago complained of this slight to the Pope and asked for the painting to be changed, the Pope apparently laughed and said ‘My power is only in heaven not in hell!’) The chapel itself was awe inspiring. The grounds were gorgeous and the Raphael rooms were amazing. And these together with St Peters Basilica (Pieta, Mosaic brilliance rave rave..) were all I would have needed to be super happy with our visit to Rome.

In saying this, the colusseum and all other great things aside, the other major stand out for me was the Capuchin Crypt. When I say stand out, it was certainly unforgettable however it was also incredibly unsettling. The visit takes you through a pretty standard (if not a little overly informative) museum about the Capuchin Monks. In order to avoid a novel though, I will skip over that part and go straight to the crypt. I honestly don’t think I could have been prepared for what came next. I knew it housed some bones arranged decoratively and thought it would be eery but it really has to be seen to be believed. What lies beneath the Santa Maria della Concezione is the bones of near on 4000 monks painstakingly arranged in to create the most ornate displays imaginable. Bones create patterns on the floors and the ceilings, form light fittings and line the walls. ‘Like type’ bones are gathered to create different areas such as the ‘room of the skulls’ and the room of the pelvises’. Some Skeletons are kept fully formed and dressed in their Monks robes. The crypt is deathly quiet as people are confronted by the images in front of them. Part of you want to look away or hurry through as the whole thing feels ghoulish but another part can’t help but marvel at the dedication and imagination as well as appreciate the beauty. You cannot take photos so there are none included but in any case, the ones I have seen prove that some things need to be seen to be believed. I left feeling, sombre, humbled and very mortal. Perhaps most impacted by the words on a plaque in the crypt that says ‘What you are now we once were; what we are now; you shall be.’

But let's not leave each other on that note! Let me lighten the mood by introducing you our beloved celebrity friend! Our local barista Fabio was also a famous pop star! (You may have heard of him if you are from Asia - he is apparently famous in 8 countries there!)

All in all there were parts of Rome we loved and parts of Rome that we loved less. It was expensive and the people weren’t always super friendly. I would probably go back, just because I think there is still so much left to see there, but in saying that, my travelling companions and I were definitely ready for an early start for our journey to the natural beauty of Tuscany..